After settling in we headed for dinner. Being a Monday, some restaurants were closed and we did not have a reservation. We wandered over to the Albergo Olivedo by the ferry dock. They were filled, but offered to serve us and another couple outside. It was a bit cool, but we were hungry. I had gnocchi with pesto sauce and a veal chop with butter and sage, both good choices. Maritza ordered ravioli and a steak. Our meal came to 66 euros. While having dinner Rick Steves walked by and was stopped by the couple sitting next to us: “Are you Rick Steves? We came to Varenna on your recommendation.” Yes, he really does get this all day. Most of the people we encountered in Varenna were Americans, many toting Rick’s book.

Tuesday, May 9

We awoke to a gray day with fog beautifully floating over Bellagio, just across the lake (actually, this is the back of Bellagio). My bed was comfortable, the linens luxurious, and the duvet warm; a good reason to linger. It rained for a while, clearing by 11:00 am. Breakfast at Hotel du Lac was our favorite of the trip. The chocolate croissants tasted as if they were straight from the oven. The charming breakfast room (below) has a killer view.